Why this night
Kenji runs the griddle at dusk so the last course lands in the dark, lit by the burners.
Counter seating
Ten stools, no table.
Two hours, no menu shown
He cooks what the market gave him.
Loud on purpose
This is not a quiet dinner.
Kenji Mori
Twenty years on a teppan in Osaka, now one long griddle in a warehouse. Kenji cooks facing you and talks the whole way through.